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The Nile Parade: Old Spirits, New Rituals

In this post co-published with The Contrapuntal magazine, Roger Anis captures the stories, relations, and emotions that unfolded in the small island of Qursaya, in downtown Cairo, thanks to the revival of the ancient ritual of the Nile parade with the local fishermen.

Fishermen of Qursaya island in their decorated boats during the 2nd Nile Parade in February 2025. Image: Roger Anis

 

When the Nile Runs Thin 

The Nile has been Cairo’s lifeline for centuries, shaping both the cityscape and its eco-social fabric. Yet today, this ancient waterway carries the weight of geopolitical tensions that stretch across eleven countries and 6,700 kilometers. Upstream, Ethiopia’s Grand Renaissance Dam and other massive infrastructure projects alter water flows, while downstream nations like Egypt negotiate for access. Climate change adds another layer of uncertainty—unpredictable rainfall patterns, prolonged droughts, and rising temperatures affect the entire basin.

These distant conflicts and global forces translate intimately into everyday realities on Qursaya Island, where fishermen like Arafa navigate not just the river’s physical currents but the daily consequences of diminished fish populations, altered seasonal rhythms, and an ecosystem forever transformed by Egypt’s own High Aswan Dam, built in the 1960s.

Here, geopolitics becomes deeply personal: fewer fish mean smaller catches, changing water levels complicate boat navigation, and the river that once brought abundance now demands new forms of adaptation and resilience. What happens in boardrooms in Addis Ababa or climate conferences in distant capitals ripples down to the nets cast at dawn, the conversations shared over evening tea, and the livelihoods sustained by hands that have worked these waters for generations.

 

Abo Sayed and his grand daughter during the Nile Parade at Qursaya island on February 2024. Image: Roger Anis.

Building the Dream

As the date of the Nile Parade approached, our weekly meetings with the artists and the team of VeryNile, an environmental NGO, intensified. There was so much to coordinate—from obtaining the most challenging security permissions to renting the land that would host our visitors, to organizing music workshops for the kids, fishermen’s workshops, and the decorations for the boats. Many moving parts, all happening simultaneously.

Egyptian Singer Youssra ElHawwary with the kids of the fishermen during the music training before the Nile Parade in February 2024. Image: Roger Anis

Alongside our planning meetings, the “Kids of the Nile” who are the children of the fishermen, women at VeryNile and residents of Qursaya island, met every weekend with Egyptian musician and singer Youssra El Hawary to create songs drawn from their daily lives on the island. As the event came closer, their excitement and confidence grew. We had promised to take them off the island to record their songs in a sound studio—something that thrilled them beyond measure.

Week by week, challenge after challenge, we found solutions, and the mosaic of the Nile Parade slowly came together. Watching it all materialize, I kept thinking: this is a dream about to come true!

Fishermen in front of the VeryNile after the first Nile Parade at Qursaya Island in February 2024. Image: Roger Anis.

The Weight of the Ritual

Last year, I held the first Nile Parade with no visitors – just the Qursaya community. I was proud, but I knew there was more to be done to make this a true ritual. How do you build a ritual if it doesn’t happen again and again? This year was our chance,but also a test. Would people come? Would they connect with it? What problems would arise, and how could we handle them?

In moments of stress, I often asked myself: Why did I leave my camera behind to organize all of this? Why am I investing so much energy? What difference will it make?

Researcher Yasmine Hussien with thirty fishermen of Qursaya during the second workshop to prepare for the second Nile parade, February 2025. Image: Roger Anis.

Voices of the Water

Two weeks before the parade, we planned the second fishermen’s workshop—this time not just to discuss their relationship with the Nile but to co-design their participation in the parade. 

Researcher Yasmine Hussein, Head of the Research Department at HCSR, led the session, working with thirty fishermen to express their stories not just in words but also through drawings. They illustrated their thoughts, their challenges, and what the Nile means to them.

At first, participation was reserved. But as always, by the workshop’s end, rich conversations unfolded. They debated types of fish, numbers, techniques, problems—everything. These discussions were goldmines of insight.

 

 

One key activity was gathering messages from the fishermen to be printed as signs on their boats—some were calls to the public, others were deeply personal expressions about the Nile. These were sent to Ammar to be transformed into boat-flag designs.

 

 

 

The Collaboration

While all this was happening, preparations were in full swing: cleaning the land for the open air exhibition, stage and booths, testing the boats, finalizing decorations with artist Ammar Abo Bakr

Arafa, one of the fishermen who became Ammar’s favorite collaborator and assistant, brought natural materials from the island, shared ideas, and even had loud arguments defending his creative vision.

The prints for the EverydayNile exhibition have arrived, along with two photographers who participated in the EverydayNile exhibition: Curity Adhiambo from Kenya and Sarah Hagag from Egypt. 

For the exhibition curation, I decided to go big—literally. We printed the photos as large as our budget and space allowed, the scale and feeling of the Nile in various countries. The exhibition featured ten stories from ten Nile Basin countries, captured by ten different photographers.

Abo Sayed stands in front of a printed photo with his granddaughter, set to be exhibited in a group show featuring photographers from 11 Nile Basin countries during the Nile Parade, Feb 2025. Image: Roger Anis

Moments of Recognition

Two unforgettable moments stand out from the building of the exhibition. The first was when Abo Sayed saw his picture printed large alongside his granddaughter. His happiness and pride were unmistakable. We printed two pictures as evidence of the first Nile Parade, and to welcome visitors to the island. The second picture featured all the fishermen, who gathered in front of it to spot themselves and share the experience with their families or take photos next to it.

Fishermen from Qursaya Island are discussing one of the photos from Uganda, which will be exhibited as part of the photo exhibition during the Nile Parade in February 2025. Image: Islam Safwat

The second memorable moment occurred when I tested one stand with a large image of Ugandan boats on the shore, in an empty area. During a break from the fishermen’s workshop, the fishermen came over and began discussing the boats. They debated the type of wood used and which country they might be from. Most of them were illiterate, so they couldn’t read the captions, but the image resonated with them. That moment confirmed for me the powerful emotions that pictures can evoke. I planned to take the fishermen on a private tour the next day when the exhibition opened.

 

An overview of the area where part of the Nile Parade took place — including the exhibition space, the stage, visitor booths, and the main entrance where guests were welcomed, February 2025. Image: Roger Anis.

 

The Final Countdown

The days flew by. Materials crossed the Nile, spaces were built, and the registration cap of 300 visitors was quickly reached. Though we wished to welcome more, this being only our second public parade, we decided to close registration for safety and control. If it succeeded this year, we could grow slowly over time.

One day before the parade, the Kids of the Nile crossed the river together, off to record their songs in a Cairo studio—a reward for three months of hard work.

Simultaneously, we transferred boat decorations to the island and began constructing the installations: decor for boats and land, a stage for the kids, lighting, sound systems, and different booths for Daym’s eco-education, recycling workshops, home-cooked food, and EverydayNile’s space.

As the final touches came together, people started requesting exceptions to attend the event after registration had closed. The building team worked through the night. The weather forecast warned of the coldest day of the year, with no sun and possible rain. We had no plan B. We hoped for the best and braced for anything.

On the morning of the parade, we were still chasing final security permissions. The weather held—for now.

 

Visitors watch the Kid of the Nile music performance during the Nile Parade at Qursaya Island in February 2025. Image: Roger Anis.

 

The Day Arrives

Visitors began arriving, crossing the Nile on VeryNile boats. Fishermen gathered around the giant photographs, discussing, debating, and guessing the locations. A group stood in front of a life-sized photo of a hippo—an animal that once lived in Egypt’s Nile before the High Aswan Dam was built—snapping pictures with their phones. Children read captions aloud to each other.

People mingled and interacted, networking, exploring the exhibition, and photographing the photos. Over 200 visitors arrived. We opened the day by explaining the story behind the Nile Parade, its aims, and what people could expect.

We scheduled two Nile Parades and two performances by the Kids of the Nile. During the first parade, I climbed to the top of VeryNile to photograph from above—a shot I’d missed last year. From there, I saw the boats approaching, music playing, people lining the Nile, clapping and singing along.

After the parade, we gathered on land. The stage was ready. The kids performed four original songs they composed and rehearsed with Youssra. It was their first time performing for an audience. As more visitors arrived, to our surprise, state media showed up, including Nile TV, even though we had agreed to keep media presence limited.

Visitors queue at the banks of the Nile to watch the fishermen’s show during the 2nd Nile Parade at Qursaya Island, February 2025. Image: Roger Anis.

 

The Rhythm of Celebration

I watched as people wove between the photographs scattered across the island. Some paused to read the captions; others snapped selfies beside the prints. New visitors arrived while others slowly began to leave after the first parade and performance. The weather, surprisingly kind, defies the forecast—no rain, not too cold, just right.

Passing the photo of the hippo, I overheard two visitors reminiscing about a time when hippos once roamed the Nile in Egypt, before the construction of the High Aswan Dam in the 1960s. It was a quiet reminder of how the river’s ecosystem has changed and how distant some memories have become.

Small groups gather. Some people sat quietly, soaking in the last rays of the sun, enjoying the view of the Nile. Children danced, music spilled into the air, and laughter rose between conversations. Others struck up discussions with the fishermen or enjoyed the beautiful homemade food by Um Nada, one of Qursaya’s residents and the chef of the local kitchen Shoka w Mogdag.

 

The fishermen’s decorated boats, each carrying flags with messages written by them — the result of the second workshop held ahead of the Nile Parade, February 2025. Image: Roger Anis.

At the EverydayNile table, prints from the exhibition are laid out as postcards. Elders and children huddle together, writing messages to the Nile—reflections, wishes, memories triggered by the images.

 

From the Water’s Edge

The second parade was about to begin. The fishermen move slowly to their starting point, guiding their boats into place. This time, I joined them. Onboard with other media members, I prepared to witness the procession from the water. The fishermen buzzed with energy, and on the riverbank, the crowd gathered again—lining up to welcome the parade as it glided by, accompanied by a live band playing from one of the boats.

From this vantage point, I could see everything up close—the pride in the fishermen’s faces, their sense of agency over this place, their home. And I saw the joy they sparked in others. Friends waved. Strangers clapped and smiled. The atmosphere was vivid, vibrant, almost surreal.

As the boats returned and the parade drew to a close, we were drawn to another performance: the children singing once more with Youssra. There was something grounding about this repetition—a cycle of celebration and community.

The decorated boats of the fishermen arrive at the banks of Qursaya Island while visitors queue to watch the parade during the 2nd Nile Parade, February 2025. Credits: Roger Anis

 

As I step off the boat, I overhear someone say to a friend, “It’s strange… the Nile is always here, but we never celebrate it. Why did we stop?” His words echo in me. Why did we stop? And more importantly, how do we begin again?

The day ended on a high. Media reports were already circulating. The fishermen were smiling. The visitors were buzzing. The VeryNile team glowed with satisfaction. As I prepared to leave the island, Alban, the founder of VeryNile, stopped me. “Let’s meet to plan the next parade,” he said.

And just like that, I realize—we can do this again. And again. We can revive this ritual, this celebration of the Nile, and fold into it a deeper purpose: to protect it, to appreciate it, to listen to its stories and its silence.

Messages flooded in. People shared how much the day meant to them. Some who couldn’t come send notes of regret. As for me, my only wish is that I have had more time to take photographs. I miss being behind the camera. But I did manage to capture some moments, just for myself. I don’t want to let go of that part of me. After all, it was a photograph that started all of this—a single image that led me down the path of researching the myth of the Bride of the Nile, of exploring rituals and their place in society. One picture that connected it all: the fishermen, VeryNile, the artists, the children, and ultimately, this revived Nile Parade.

One of the fishermen in his boat at the end of the day of the Nile Parade in February 2025. Credits: Roger Anis.

 

The Deeper Current

A week later, I find myself in Arafa’s boat again. We were working on another layer of the project—exploring biodiversity around the island. As we drifted, he reflected on the parade. “It made everyone on the island happy,” he said. “People are still talking about it. My kids, my family… we want this to happen again and again.”

Then, as we rowed quietly, the sound of water lapping around us, Arafa turned to me and added, “You know, that was one of the only times we fishermen gathered in such large numbers. It’s not that we don’t see each other, but all together like that? It just doesn’t happen. Two fishermen who were in a fight—hadn’t spoken in a long time—they made peace that day. It was a good moment for all of us.”

We continued our tour around the island. Arafa pointed out the species that live here, quietly introducing me to the more-than-human world we share this river with.

And in this moment, drifting with Arafa, I realise again: this is what ritual can do—it can bring people together, and maybe, just maybe, remind us of how to live alongside the river again.

 

 

The Nile Parade in 2024 happened as an initiative as part of my research and master’s thesis programme, where I collaborated with VeryNile. We fully sponsored the event. In 2025, the Nile Parade took place thanks to a grant from Creative Development, Media in Cooperation and Transition (MiCT)  and IHE Delft Water and Development Partnership Program.

 


OpenEdition suggests that you cite this post as follows:
Roger Anis (June 25, 2025). The Nile Parade: Old Spirits, New Rituals. FLOWs. Retrieved May 12, 2026 from https://doi.org/10.58079/147d0


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3 Responses

  1. Nahom Teklu says:

    Dear Roger, 

    This is a good example of storytelling! I appreciate the flow and organization of the piece, which allows readers to transition smoothly through the content in engaging ways, aided by the headings of curiosity. You successfully presented Qursaya’s socio-water stories using the parade as a lens, exploring the different factors that shaped the island’s water narrative. Speaking generally about the ritual, having a parade centered around water is such a cool idea! Fyi, there is another, if not similar, ritual in Ethiopia known as Irreecha, a thanksgiving occasion celebrated around Hora (an Oromiffa word for lake or other water bodies) by one of the country’s ethnic group, the Oromo.

    A congregation celebrating the landmark Oromo’s cultural thanksgiving ritual at Hora in Bishoftu, 1903.

    This said, while I appreciate the presentational aspect of your piece, I must respectfully and critically beg to differ with the statement quoted below, as it unfairly elaborates on the case you intend to make a point about.

    “Upstream, Ethiopia’s Grand Renaissance Dam and other massive infrastructure projects alter water flows, while downstream nations like Egypt negotiate for access.” (2nd – 4th lines of the 1st paragraph in a computer view under the heading ‘When the Nile Runs Thin’)

    I believe this sentence lneeds to be more nuanced and inclusive because it leaves out Ethiopia’s willingness or actions to negotiate and cooperate. It indicates a ‘discrepancy’ regarding the natural flow and speed of the river as a result of GERD (+ unnamed projects), yet this should be viewed at least in the context of the technicalities and management of the dam itself, as well as Ethiopia’s natural right to utilize the river, which originates and flows through its territory for infrastructural development projects like the dam. Absolutely, in the most mutually beneficial way possible!

    In this regard, the quoted sentence diluted my taste of the read and failed to reflect a just aspect by framing Ethiopia’s actions as ‘implementing projects that affect the water flow and speed,’ rather than portraying it as a cooperating partner who also constructively inquires about access and the right of use. This notion is further emphasized by your later mention of the ‘rippling effects’ of decisions made in ‘boardrooms in Addis Ababa.’ I wonder if you also navigate what these decisions mean for the people of Ethiopia:- for the ancient island monasteries in Lake Tana, for the 80% of the nation’s population living in rural areas, where there is no electricity to alleviate the daily burdens on women, such as making Injera, or helping children do their school assignments by the light of a lamp?

    I can completely understand that sometimes it’s hard to be indifferent when writing about topics like this, even in such 0.1% of the whole text. But, it’s also important not to leave out or mispresent key narratives and facts from all sides if the storytelling is aimed to be well-rounded. Maybe I’m also not indifferent, maybe not. 

    • Roger Anis says:

      Nahom, this is such an important, interesting information that you mentioned about the Thanksgiving ritual, and the picture is really captivating, thank you for sharing, may be we can make the Nile Parade in Ethiopia as well 🙂 I mean this is a bigger dream to move it along other Nile basin countries.

      Regarding the introduction of the story, I carefully read your comment a couple of times, and I can say that I understand your point completely. However, I also want to clarify that this does not in any way undermine Ethiopia’s right to build the dam or use its natural resources in a way that benefits the country. Rather, it aims to highlight the potential risks involved, along with other concerns such as climate change, pollution, and additional factors. I understand that this can present a significant dilemma, and I always try to keep this in mind when working on sensitive subjects like this. I would also like to recall our walk and conversation in The Hague, which I found very insightful for both of us — where we agreed on many points as Nile citizens away from politics regarding water use and access. We all know and recognise that many countries and political interests are involved in the current tensions between Egypt and Ethiopia. One of the best things I did during this project was visiting Ethiopia before it became nearly impossible for an Egyptian to do so, due to rising tensions. During that visit, I personally experienced water scarcity in a country abundant with water — a point I often highlight in my presentation and photostory about the Nile, affirming Ethiopia’s right to develop using its own resources.
      I also remember you mentioning how every person in Ethiopia contributed to funding the dam, and the high hopes and benefits this project promises for the country, which provided me with further valuable insight. I want to reaffirm that what you read in the beginning relates more to political tensions, alongside other factors like climate change and pollution, rather than criticising or undermining the right of people to develop their nations and improve their lives through their own resources. Since we met personally and discussed this openly, which I consider one of the personal highlights of this month, I trust that you understand my true intentions were not as conveyed. Nevertheless, I believe I should be more careful in future writings to remain aware of the subject’s sensitivity and to maintain as much neutrality as possible. Although complete objectivity may be challenging at times, we should endeavour to approach it. I truly appreciate that you shared your thoughts and opened this discussion.

      Peace, Water and Development for all.

      • Hi Roger,

        Thank you for your thoughtful response. Of course, we should extend the parade routes through the areas, perhaps blending the notion with the local rites and rituals. This will be a very interesting revolution about water, I’m sure! I also learned a lot from our discussions in the Netherlands in general. I completely agree with you about the importance of travelling. One of the best decisions I made in the near past was visiting Egypt before it became hectic due to the unusually lengthy security check process, which takes around three months in advance of the travel date. Unfortunately, because of this, I missed the chance to meet all of you in Cairo and visit the river and engage in the project activities for a second time.

        I always look forward to reading your thought-provoking and beautiful pieces, reiterating your inspiring quote: ‘Peace, Water, and Development for all.’

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